Europe Notes

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Wen and I just got back from a rapid sprint through London, Paris & Fontainebleau:

Looking back, it’s fun to contrast the two capitals.

London seems to be a city of repeating motifs; the order of the buildings seems to be almost an apology for the chaotic arrangement of the streets.

Row Houses

Houses near Holland Park  

Brick buildings in Kensington

Paris on the other hand is a monochromatic mesh of near identical ancient buildings punctured occasionally by an era’s vision of the future. (These buildings are also incredibly clean; I suspect that stimulus money from the 2008 crisis was used to polish buildings and remove dog shit from the streets.)

Doors

Paris Church

Zaha Hadid at Centre du Monde Arab

Interestingly, these visions of the future are increasingly rare. There was lots of construction in Paris but it’s all confined to the outer banlieues where presumably the zoning laws are more lax. In contrast, London was dotted with cranes competing to redraw the skyline:

View from Primrose Hill

I’d also forgotten how Paris is a chameleon whose colours change at night:

Flowerpots

Brasserie

Evening Street Scene - Version 2

Steps near Palais de Tokyo

Eiffel Tower

A few other things I noticed:

1.

The English romanticize the wild…

Wildflowers in Grimaldi Park

…while the French seek to tame it

Reflecting pool in Fontainebleau

2.

Each city has its own dominant smell. On a walk through the towpaths and parks of the city, London’s appears to be the sweet rot of plants that lurk in cracks between stones and in back alleys. Paris’ is the smell of urine in the subway.

3.

France is the one of only two places in the world (the other being New York’s Upper East Side) where men can innocuously, unabashedly and unrepentantly wear red pants:

Red pants

4.

London was in full bloom for us when we arrived:

Roses in Holland Park

In fact, it may have been blooming too much. It hadn’t rained in ages and there was so much dust and pollen floating around that you literally felt like you had just visited the barber.

5.

The French are the European champions at both smoking in public and randomly stopping in the busiest places on crowded thoroughfares. In fact, urban planners could do better than simply following the French around and watching where they stop as a clue as to the most-trafficked places in a city.

I suspect the halting is driven by a subconscious need to have one’s existence acknowledge by others, if only via profanities.

6.

Every airport is full of defeated-looking people and Heathrow may have just that many more than others. I suspect this is because it’s an airport designed by shareholders who do not fly and worship Thomas Hobbes. It’s all angles and no curves, paths that maximize time spent in duty free rather than getting to your gate, and floor space auctioned to the free-est spending luxury brand rather than thinking about how passengers might, say, want to eat rather than buy jewellery.

7.

France is a great place to simply sit and waste time drinking a coffee. I can see how they came up with the word boulevardier.

French coffee

Coffee

INSEAD coffee cup

8.

London has fantastic street art.

Street Art

Einstein on Bike Street Art

Street Art

Street Art

9.

I’d always thought that Britain was an extremely free place but then I read about their liberal approach to handing out superinjuctions: press bans that are so severe that you can’t even report there’s a ban (Kafka would be proud).

I was reading the story linked to above while also skimming a British paper. It was surreal to read the paper and see that the local press could only refer to one of the stories referred to by the article:

Ryan Giggs in Sun

It was also interesting to see that an article about Gordon Ramsay’s in-law appeared on the same page. Was this also a subtle attempt by the paper to tell users to search the internet as Gordon Ramsay has a superinjunction out?

10.

There’s an awful lot of red in London:

Roses in Holland Park

Roses in Holland Park

Pub

Building near parliament

St Pancras

Gingers in Camden

Recent Dispatches

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Things have been exceptionally busy recently between work and numerous visitors and this blog has suffered. So, in lieu of a proper post, here are some notes on recent things (plus some recent photos).

1.

The two biggest buildings in my neighbourhood are the Molson brewery and the Lulu Lemon headquarters directly across the street from it. I learned the other day that the brewery has a bar on the top floor where you can grab a pint and look into the top floor of the Lulu Lemon building. There, instead of a bar, they’ve got a gym where all the women who work there exercise.

Sunset & Rain Over BC Place

2.

I learned that many Chinese (plus Koreans and Japanese, according to the Wikipedia) hate the number four as it literally sounds like death. This leads to interesting situations in Vancouver condos, like my friend’s in Yaletown that is 37 storeys tall yet lacks a 34th, 24th, 14th, 4th or 13th floor. Plus there are no “number 4″ units on any floor. Let’s hope a lot of Italians don’t move here soon or we’re going to run out of numbers.

Elevator With No Number 4

3.

I’ve noticed a disturbing trend in Vancouver. A lot of property developers are turning empty lots into temporary parks until they can sell enough units to break ground. I can’t imagine a more cruel joke for the neighbours: you temporarily gain a park until it’s replaced by a 26 storey building of overpriced units.

Fake Park on East Broadway

4.

I continue to be impressed by Apple’s attention to detail. I was at Emily Carr and looking at their industrial design showcase where they have an Apple PowerCD (for non-fanboys, this was a CD player that was briefly sold in the early 90′s). Despite not being sold for over 15 years, if you type it into your iPhone, they’ll auto-correct it to the proper, brand-approved capitalization.

New Fairmont Downtown

5.

And speaking of Emily Carr, it’s that time of year when the grad’s show off their thesis projects. I’m blown away by the quality of the work and the focus on finding unique solutions to real design problems; the show compares really well with the ITP summer/winter shows that we used to go to in NYC. The following photos/movies do not do it justice:

Lighting made of recycled knitting cones

Porcelain Lunch Box for Lolitas

I particularly liked this exhibit where you could hold up coded cards to paint on a virtual canvas: